Modern Blacksmithing Rational Horse Shoeing and Wagon Making

with rules, tables, recipes, etc., useful to manufactures, blacksmiths, machinists, well-drillers, engineers, liverymen, horse-shoers, farmers, wagon-makers, mechanics, amateurs and all others who have occasion to perform the work for which this book is primarily intended. by J.G. Homstrom 1901

Janpanese Plow

How to Point a Plow

Points are now sold by dealers in hardware, and every smith knows how they are shaped. There is, however, no need of buying these; every smith has old plowshares from which points can be cut, provided you don't use an old share too much worn. The points sold are cut with the intention that most of the point is to be placed on top of the plow point. This is all right in some instances, while it is wrong in others. When you cut a piece for a point make it the same shape at both ends. Now, when a plow needs the most of the point on top bend the end to be on top longer than the end to go underneath, and vice versa, when the point wants to be heaviest on the bottom side. I hold that in ordinary cases the most of the point should be on the bottom side. If it is it will wear better and keep in the ground longer, for as soon as the point is worn off underneath it comes out of the ground. Don't monkey with old mower sections or anything like them for points, for, although the material is good, it is not the quality alone but also the quantity that goes to make up a good point. It takes only a few hours' plowing to wear off a section from the extreme point of the share, and then there is only the iron of the plow point left to wear against; and your time spent for such a point is lost. Another thing, it takes just as much time to put on such a point as it does to put on a good one for which you charge the regular price. In putting on a point of thin material you must go unusually slow, or you will burn the steel before the plow point is hot.

Bench for Holding Plow to Work On

Smiths, as a rule, draw out a round back point. They seem to be afraid of coming down on the point with the hammer for fear it will spring the point towards the land. This can be remedied by using a wooden block for anvil. Then you can set the point back without battering the edge of the share. The suck of a point should be one-eighth of an inch. Don't split the steel of the point of a share open and wedge a point in. Make one long enough to reach around the point, say from 8 to 10 inches long and you will have a good substantial job. There is too much experimenting in putting on points yet, but the method just' described is the only good one.




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