Modern Blacksmithing Rational Horse Shoeing and Wagon Making

with rules, tables, recipes, etc., useful to manufactures, blacksmiths, machinists, well-drillers, engineers, liverymen, horse-shoers, farmers, wagon-makers, mechanics, amateurs and all others who have occasion to perform the work for which this book is primarily intended. by J.G. Homstrom 1901

How to Make a Horse Shoe Part 2

I know but a few horse-shoers that are able to weld on a toe calk good. The reason for their inability is lack of experience in general blacksmithing. Most shoers know not how to make a fire to weld in. They are too stingy about the coal; try to weld in dirt and cinders, with a low fire, the shoe almost touching the tuyer iron. I advise all horse-shoers to read my article about the fire.

I have made a hammer specially for horse-shoeing with a peen different from other hammers. With this hammer the beginner will have no trouble in drawing out the calks. See Figure 8, No.8. The hammers as now used by most smiths are short and clumsy; they interfere too much with the air, and give a bump instead of a sharp cutting blow that will stick to the calk. The shoe should be so shaped at the heel as to give plenty of room for the frog; the heels to be spread out as wide as possible. This is important, for if the shoe is wide between the heels the horse will stand more firm, and it will be to him a. comfortable shoe. The shoe should not be wider between the calks at the expense of same, as is done by some shoers, for this is only a half calk, and the heel is no wider. The shoe should not be fitted to the foot when hot, as it will injure the hoof if it is burned to the foot.