Practical Carriage Building

Compiled by M.T. Richardson, Vol.1. 1891

Rim Clamp and Rimming and Tiring of Wheels

The screw clamp Fig 176
The method of using the clamp Fig 177

An Adjustable Rim Clamp

A handy rim clamp that I use to set rims to a joint at the shoulders of the spokes, and also for other joints in woodworking, is shown by Fig. 170. A denotes the screw clamp, ft is the body of the clamp, D D are two crossbars riveted on each side of the lugs C, which are shown in Fig. 177. These lugs have the ends hooked to go around spokes. The lugs are made of iron, three eighths by three-quarter inch by twelve inches. For the body of the clamp take iron three-eighths by three-quarters inch by sixteen inches. The screw clamp is made of half-inch round iron. D D are one-quarter by one inch by three inches.óBy J. W. S.

Rimming and Tiring of Wheels

To properly rim wheels it is necessary first to have the tools that will do the work, one of the most important of which is the spoke auger to cut the tenons and the ends of spokes. To make a durable wheel these tenons must be cut true with the face of the wheel, and their shoulders square with the tenon. This is the first and one of the most important parts in rimming.

Next in importance is thoroughly dry material for rims, well bent to the proper height. The rim should be a perfect semi-circle, and not twisted sideways. By casting the eye over the edge of the rim any variation in this degree can be seen. Each piece should be carefully faced up out of wind, and the inside squared with the face.

The wheel being firmly fastened to the wheel-clamp or bench, each spoke should be marked on the rim, so that the exact position may be maintained when the rim is bored and driven on.

Boring the holes in rims is another vital part in rimming. These holes should be on an exact angle with the spoke on which they are to rest. Any deviation from this line will cause the spoke to spring under the draft of the tires in gauging for the holes, they should be one-half the width of the tire back from the face, so that the tenon will be in the center of the tread. After boring, the rim can lie rounded. This can be done more expeditiously in the vise than on the wheel, especially with what is taken off with the drawing knife. The filing can be done after the rim is driven on the wheel.

In driving on the rim don't use a light hammer; use a heavy hammer or hand ax, and set them down on the shoulder solid. No wedges should be necessary to keep it in place; but occasionally they may be needed. The tread of the rim should be square and true with the face of the wheel.

Now we are ready for setting the tire, and it is important that it be well done, in order that our job of rimming may be satisfactory. If one is going to put on a new tire, lay the bars on the floor, take the wheels one by one, and roll each of them on the bars, allowing three times the thickness of the tire over the circumference of the wheel for bending. A wheel with spokes tight, and nearly or quite straight, will stand more draft than when they are loose and badly dished.óBy "OLD ZIP."




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